A Brief History of Men's Shirts from 1900-1949

Something I've always been interested in as you know is the evolution of clothing. I'm always curious to know things like how this:

approximately 1840

Turned into this in a period of 20 years:

1860

Now granted men's fashion has changed a bit more slowly than women's fashion in the past few centuries, but we can all agree that it has still evolved fairly quickly.

1810

1910

2010
(Nancy note: This girl lived the next town over from me and went to my rival high school at the same time as me. She was even on our rival cheerleading squad. Please don't think any less of me...I promise no one else from that area talks like her.)

But all joking aside I could write a book on how men's fashion has changed in this century alone, but what I'd like to do today is talk about how a man's everyday shirt has changed since the beginning of the last century.

1900s:

Ca. 1900s (1907ish)

Here's an example of a pretty typical late 1900s shirt. There is a high detachable wing collar (rounded) and two cuff options. The sleeve plackets are pointed and the yolk is straight. This is what is called a "coat shirt" because if the fact that it opens all the way down to the bottom and can be slipped on like a coat.

The type of work shirt you wore, like today, depended on what you did for a living. Business men typically wore suits and white shirts of finer material while day laborers wore more colored shirts of much sturdier fabric (color hides stains and dirt). A man had many shirt patterns and colors available. Polka dots, double stripes and single stripes were popular as well as the traditional white.

Both acceptable shirting fabrics. 

Collars came in detachable variations like the shirt pictured above and rarely softer attached collars. In the early 1900s collars were much more popular as they increased the longevity of the shirt. Shirts were still yet to be mass produced and a gentleman typically had less than a weeks worth of shirts in his possession at any given time. You will also note above that the collar is quite high. This is left over from the late Victorian era, but as we approached the end of the decade shirt collars start to shrink in height.

1910s:

 late teens (source)

So this is a Negligee shirt or what I would call a semidress or casual shirt. It is not a night shirt. That's something completely different. (Nancy note: the term negligee doesn't become associated with bedroom attire until 1930s.) This shirt also has a detachable collar option and what's called a front-plait opening down the front. The placket ends a little more than midway down the shirt and the shirt is meant to be slipped over the head, though the pattern does give you the option to make it a coat shirt. The neckline is still quite high, but lower than the previous shirt. The rounded collar was still the more popular style at this time, but it would be going out of fashion shortly.

There are two versions of the shirt pictured above. The far left is the negligee version, the center collarless version is what's called an outing shirt. This shirt could also be considered a work shirt if it was made with a sturdier fabric. The type of shirt at this time was determined mostly by the fabric used. Lighter fabrics for casual wear, slightly heavier fabrics for casual wear, and sturdier still for work shirts. The pointed yolk was typically found on casual shirts like these, but on occasion it would pop up in more formal wear.

From a Guild to Making Shirts reprinted 1928 

Many colors were still popular at this time. Stripes, half stripes, and even on occasion checked fabrics were worn.

1920s:

Early 1920s

This shirt features a slightly more modern look. You still have the option for a detachable collar, but the main image of this pattern shows a pointed attached collar. Even the detachable collar is slightly pointed. The shirt again gives you the option of coat shirt style opening or front-plait style opening. There are two cuff options including a detachable reversible soft cuff.

During the 1920s the silhouette of the shirt begins to change due in part to improved manufacturing techniques. Shirts become more fitted, with straight fitted sleeves. French cuffs are the norm. Pointed soft attached collars become more and more widespread thanks to the invention of the home washing machine. Rounded detachable collars are still popular among the older population, but for the trendy folks pointed collars become the normal shirt for business wear. They were secured with collar studs or pins and a tie. Detachable collars are still popular among day laborers for their ease of care and increased shirt life.

1930s:

source

Now we're cooking with gas, as they say. This is really starting to look like today's men's shirt. This pattern only gives the option of the coat shirt opening. Plait-front shirts are pretty much obsolete. The placket still ends quite high on the shirt, but this is in accordance with the pants style of the 30s in which a high waist was preferred.

French cuffs, pointed sleeve plackets, and a longer shirt collar point are all features of this particular shirt. Also popular at this time. Collar stays!

Which were really more like tie clips, but still amazingly effective. Clip stay to tie and each side of collar and voila! Collar stays put all day long. Genus says I.

1940s:

The 1940s bring with it an explosion of different styles of shirts. Shirts become more and more casual. Short sleeve shirts are very stylist for casual wear, sport wear and even work wear.

Fabric choices explode. Flannel, cottons, rayon, prints, prints, prints, and more prints all become popular for work and casual wear.

Western shirts become popular in the late 30s and into the early 40s. This is caused the increased popularity of western movies and stars like John Mack Brown, Red Berry, Harry Carry, Jr. and more. I have a secret love for these, but Mr. Fiance has promised me he will never wear one. Bummer. 

The button down business shirts stay about the same. Detachable collars disappear and the softer pointed collar firmly cements its place in men's fashion. Shirt tails become shorter and plackets extend as the waist on men's pants lowers.

And that, my lovely friends, is that. If you found this helpful drop a comment in the comment section below. Next post: 1950s-1960s.


If anyone was confused by some of the terms I used in the post here's a helpful diagram.

source

Additional References and Some Good Supplemental Reading Recommendations:

• The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present: Volume 1, 1900-1949
• Unsung Sewing Patterns
• Male Pattern Boldness: Shirt Collar Palooza
• Collar Ink: About Collar Stays

Fourth of July Post

Hey, Readers! Hope you're all feeling well this morning. I am feeling pretty good myself (at least compared to yesterday.) I had some dry cereal this morning for breakfast and when that felt alright I ate 6 raspberries and a small handful of buckwheat groats. If all that stays down I may try some coconut yogurt for lunch.

Since I am feeling way better than yesterday I figured I'd go ahead and finish up my 4th of July post that was so rudely interrupted by dizzy spells and vomit. So there.

So for this belated 4th of July I have scanned some of my favorite things from the Bicentennial edition of Workbasket magazine.

I always love looking through these old magazines. This particular one has some great little patterns, tips and advertisements. Of course it is the 70s so there is a great amount of kitsch and scratchy acrylic yarn to stuff your kids/spouse into.

Workbasket actually had a rather large selection of mail order patterns. I'm sure most of you would recognize the pattern line if you saw a photo of one of their patterns. Here's what they recommended for the summer of '76. I'm digging on the Chinese top in the top left corner and the summer shirt dress in the lower right.

Need some help removing those tough stains from clothes?

Most of the knitting and crochet patterns were a little too much for me, but I thought this one could be turned into something rather charming and office worthy if you used the right color yarn. I've got some Malabrigo Chunky yarn in celeryish green hanging around my stash that might work well for this:

My favorite section of this whole magazine was definitely the part titled "Women Who Make Cents." It's a section entirely devoted to recommendations from women on how to make horribly kitschy crafts that you could potentially sell for money. Here are a few of my favorites.

Did you know $25V's facebook links to all kinds of free stuff?

Did you know that $25 Vintage's facebook fan page posts links to free vintage patterns from all across the web on a regular basis? Today I shared a link to this cute 1938 knitted hat pattern from Vintageous.com.

I also post links to vintage patterns from my personal collection as well as stories and updates that you won't find here on the blog. It's pretty cool. At least I think so.

If facebook isn't your thing $25 Vintage also has a twitter! We're @25dollarvintage. Yay Twitter!

And I totally have something nifty for you Readers today. As of today if you mention or link to $25 Vintage on your blog, facebook, or twitter I'll send you a copy of this ridiculously cute 1930s coat and hat pattern.

All you have to do is mention this blog and then post a link to your post in the comments below. Be sure to leave me your email address and in return I'll send a pdf of this pattern straight to your inbox! The pdf comes complete with updated knitting instructions, yardage requirements, gauge, terminology key, high resolution photo, and snarky comments by yours truly.

The hat pattern is especially cute and very quick to knit up. I know you'll enjoy it. All you've got to do is mention me and then leave a comment or send me a message to let me know.

Have a good one!

Every once in a while you see a dress that you MUST have.

Hello, Readers! How was your holiday? I was sick over ours which was totally lame, but we still enjoyed ourselves. Instead of going out we got dressed up and enjoyed an evening in. We bought a bottle of Barefoot and streamed Dick Clark's Rocking New Years Eve to the laptop.  It was lovely, but back to the Vintage.

Every once in a while you come across something that you MUST have. The feeling came upon me when I saw this super cute 1930s Tour Eiffel eyelet dress in an email from a dear friend.

It was love at first sight, my friends. I'd never seen anything quite like it, but I knew that I loved it. The eyelet lace top, the super cute giant bow (very 1930s), the neckline....

But at $425 it was about $400 out of my price range. Still, after three days of thinking about this dress non stop I decided that I may have to make recreating something like it my January project.

As I thought about it more pictured this new creation as more of a play suit. I was thinking about changing that skirt into pants and adding a zipper up the back. Everyone seems to be posting about 1930's Pajama Trousers lately and that probably accounts for why I've got them on the brain.

From Wearing History

From Tea with the Vintage Baroness

From Jennifer Anyan

Tooooooo cute! I just love these ladies who are wearing their breezy summer trousers to the beach or on a picnic. They look fashionable, carefree, and so comfy. I was thinking of redesigning the blue dress into something like so...

"Sketched" and photographed during 5 minute lunch break. I need a better cellphone camera, but anyways.

I quickly hopped on my favorite vintage pattern source (read: etsy) and managed to locate a few patterns that would make a good base for my play suit/jumper/frankensteined mental creation. I especially loved this little lady from 1930 who seemed to be just want I was looking for.

But what to you think, Dear Readers. Is this a great idea or a major fashion don't waiting to happen? You've never led me astray with your advice before so I'll trust your judgement.

"Logan Costume!" or "Halloween in December..."

Alright! The long awaited (at least on my part, maybe not on yours) Logan shirt post. I know this is a month over due, but I hope you'll forgive me.

The overall steps were pretty easy. I started with this pattern for the undershirt.

Which I'll note is just about the easiest darn pattern that there ever was. In fact, I'll share with you all the complete construction instructions. 

Sweet right? The first step was to cut out the pattern pieces. If you've ever used a stretch-and-sew pattern you'll know that the pattern is double sided and you always have to trace the pattern pieces onto pattern paper. I was sort of out of pattern paper at the time so I used some parchment paper, but halfway through the torso pieces I ran out of that so I switched to wax paper. I wouldn't really recommend wax paper for this job unless you get in a pinch like I did. It's not the easiest thing to work with, but it gets the job done.

There's nothing quite like jury-rigging. Yup. I have mad taping wax paper together skills.

The second step as you'll note from the pattern above was the sew up the shoulder seams. Since this was the undershirt and I was working with jersey knit I wanted to add some seam stabilization.

I do not buy store bought seam stabilizing tape for my knits. The tape is expensive and I find that a little bit of interfacing cut into strips does the job better than tape ever has. Plus it's a good way to get rid of all those interfacing scraps you inevitably have left over and it STRETCHES. Heck. Yeah.

I used fusible interfacing for this shirt because it was the only thing I had in black, but non fusible works pretty well as long as it's stretchy. Just stick it on top of whatever seam your sewing and proceed as normal.

After all the seams were sewn I ran a hot iron over the seam stabilizer/leftover interfacing to secure it a little better. As you can see in the above picture to save on fabric I cut the back piece of the shirt out of two pieces of fabric and sewed them together (top left). I left about five inches unsewn so I could add a closure later. My gray fabric was not very stretchy and would never have fit over Fiancé's head. Thus, velcro was a must.

I forgot to take pictures of the mock-turtleneck collar installation, but it was pretty straight forward. I cut a strip of gray fabric to 17 inches (the measurement of fiancé's neck plus one inch for overlap) by 4 inches. I folded it in half, sewed the ends closed, snipped off the corners, turned it right-side-out and pressed. After that I turned inside out again and sewed the right sides of the shirt and collar together. I turned the shirt right side out, folded the collar over and top-stitched the collar to secure it to the shirt.

And Presto! A mock turtle neck for your viewing pleasure. I hemmed the sleeves and added a velcro closure to the back of the shirt to finish it up.

The next step was to create the outer tunic. I started off by graphing all the triangle details into the front of the shirt with a ruler and some tailors chalk. When I had it the way that I liked it I went ahead and top stitched over all the lines. This took for-eeevvvv-eeeerrr, but was totally worth it.

For the tunic itself I took one of Fiance's teeshirts and traced it onto my black jersey. I added a 1/2 inch seam allowance on all sides and cut it out.

After I had all my tunic pieces ready I decided where I wanted the gray bar to go.

I subtracted a 1/4 inch seam allowance on the top and the bottom and cut out the black panel.

I used the cut out as a stencil for for the gray fabric and added an additional 1/2inch to the top and bottom of the panel to make up the difference.

I sewed the panel onto the front of the tunic and then attached the back of the tunic. To finish it up I hemmed the neck, armholes and bottom of the tunic.

I'm pretty happy with the outcome of the costume. There are a few things I'll go back and change before we wear these again.

1. Take in tunic arm holes a little more. I wasn't happy with how far they were poking out.
2. Adjust neck line on tunic so it doesn't cover up the bottom of mock-turtleneck. It's the wrong shape.
3. Finish the 70's pants that were suppose to go with this thing.

But otherwise I was quite happy. Our social circle is full of geeks and they certainly embraced our costumes.

I'd also like to note, Dear Readers, that I was just rehired to my old company! Hurray! And just in time for the Holidays. I'm thankful to my friends, readers, and especially my parents for helping us through the layoff period. E-hugs to all of you!